Laid Back & Lesser Known
Like many towns along the Pacific coast of Central America, San Juan del Sur is most known as a burgeoning surfing destination. While still relatively new to the scene compared to places like Dominical and Nosara in Costa Rica, this lesser-known and vastly more affordable locale is quickly climbing the ranks. The area offers consistent waves and warm waters, making it ideal for beginners and experienced surfers.
San Juan del Sur, with its population of around 16,000, exudes a laid-back, friendly vibe. But don’t be fooled by its relaxed atmosphere. The town is a hub of diverse activities, from exploring local restaurants and surf shops to thrilling ATV tours.
The roads to San Juan del Sur are well maintained, making it easy to reach from other major cities like Granada, which is less than a two-hour drive away. Unlike the more significant towns inland, the overall atmosphere in San Juan del Sur is relaxed and inviting, providing a perfect place to unwind and enjoy the region’s natural beauty. The views from various spots in the area, especially the Cristo de la Misericordia statue, showcase Nicaragua’s breathtaking landscape and coastal beauty.
A Charming Coastal Town: Day 1 in SJDS
On the fourth day of our week-long adventure through Nicaragua, we arrived in the colorful coastal town of San Juan del Sur. As with many of our travel itineraries, we purposely chose to conclude our vacation by the ocean, drawn to the promise of sun, sand, and surf.
Airbnb Casa Alegra
For our four-day stay in San Juan del Sur, we booked Airbnb Casa Alegre. This spacious and modern home, with five bedrooms and 4.5 baths, sits atop a hill, where you can enjoy the best views of Playa San Juan del Sur and the Cristo de la Misericordia poolside on the expansive patio.
When we arrived in town, we learned the house was still being cleaned and not ready for check-in, so we dropped our bags off with the cleaning staff and headed into town.
Cervecería SJDS
Those who know us know we love trying local foods and craft beers. When I came across the Facebook page of Nicaragua Craft Beer Co—Cervecería SJDS, I knew we had to make a stop. So why not make it our first stop in San Juan del Sur?
Located in the heart of town, the founders of Nicaragua Craft Beer Co. claim they opened Nicaragua’s first brewpub in this humble beach town in 2014. The brewery embodies the essence of the laid-back “tranquilo” lifestyle in San Juan del Sur. As lifelong surfers and craft beer enthusiasts, the brewery’s handcrafted beers are inspired by the founders’ surfing adventures and unique Nicaraguan way of life.
Craig and I have learned through our travels that it’s challenging to find good craft beer while traveling in countries with consistently warm climates. Typically, lagers are king in regions like Central America and the Caribbean. We assume it’s due to the limited ability to keep ingredients and products reliably cooled, but it’s only a guess. Either way, we were hopeful when we saw the beer menu at Cervecería SJDS.
We ordered a flight of the brewery’s flagship beers and toasted our arrival to the Pacific coast of Nicaragua! The taproom and restaurant, with its large accordion doors opened to the street, offer plenty of space and a reprieve from the heat. The kids were excited to find a ping-pong at the entrance to the building and happily took up a game. The menu at Nicaragua Craft Beer Co. was tempting and affordable, offering typical bar eats with Nicaraguan flair. Haven ordered the pork sliders and was more than pleased with his choice.
Playa San Juan del Sur
After cooling off at Cervecería SJDS, we strolled along the San Juan del Sur beachfront. The mile-long beach is wide and flat, lined with numerous bars and restaurants dotting the golden sand. Colorful fishing boats bob on soft turquoise waves while the gentle surf creates a beautiful reflection of the sky on the shore. It’s a view that makes you wonder why you would want to be anywhere else.
But San Juan del Sur is not without its flaws. The beach, the lowest point in town, also collects trash and debris that washes down through the city—a sight that made us second-guess the idea of swimming. But it is certainly a place worthy of a stroll or a few hours of relaxation in the sun.
Beach Day: Day 2 in SJDS
Beach Day! While we enjoy having a packed itinerary, nothing compares to a day at the beach with no commitments. Spending a day basking in the sun and gazing at the endless horizon is the best antidote to exhaustion.
Playa Marsella
Playa Marsella, located just north of San Juan del Sur, is a peaceful sandy cove surrounded by rocky outcrops and tropical dry forests. With modest lodgings and seafood cafes nearby, this hidden gem is ideal for relaxing and enjoying Nicaragua’s beauty.
The drive to Playa Marsella is easy to navigate using Google Maps, though the roads are unpaved and bumpy. There is a small parking area by a café at the beach entrance, and the beach is just a short walk from there. Like most beaches in the region, the surf is slow and steady, while the sand is smooth and wide. This makes it an ideal spot to swim, search for shells, and soak up the sun!
The small thatched-roof tiki bar El Islote Bar & Grill is intriguing and inviting, making it a worthy stop. The bartender was personable, knowledgeable, and eager to create a few fresh-squeezed fruit concoctions for us. Unsure of what to order, we decided to trust his expertise, and the drinks turned out to be as perfect as the view.
Bueno Vista ATV Tour: Day 3 in SJDS
After a relaxing afternoon at Playa Marsella, we were ready for a bit of excitement. Regarding vacation activities, ATV tours are always at the top of our boys’ list. So, I made sure to include one in our Nicaragua itinerary. We’ve taken ATV tours before, but San Juan ATV Rentals was absolutely exhilarating! Looking back, it was our favorite activity of the trip.
A Wild Ride!
Starting mid-day, we geared up and headed out of town with our guides on an exploration of the jungles and stunning beaches surrounding San Juan del Sur. The 4-5 hour tour took us up mountains, through forests, alongside lakes, down beaches, and up an overlook of the Pacific for sunset.
But the absolute best part of the tour was the ride. Unlike other tours we’ve been on, San Juan ATV Rentals lets those with ATV experience have a little more leash to run. And run we did!
Our guides often stopped us to highlight native wildlife and admire beautiful landscapes. They offered us cold beverages and snacks, including water, beer, and freshly cut fruits each time. There was even a stop at a beach restaurant and bar, where you had ample time to enjoy a meal or take advantage of the amenities. The tour’s highlight was the conclusion, the view from a grassy outlook high above the Pacific at sunset. It was magnificent!
After an exhilarating afternoon on ATVs, we headed home for some much-needed showers before dinner at Tuani’s. Tuani’s is a well-known restaurant near the marina in San Juan del Sur, and it receives high ratings online. However, our experience did not live up to those expectations. While the food was excellent, the service was horrible. It was a disappointing way to end an otherwise fantastic day and may have been our least favorite dining experience of the trip.
Go Big & Go Home: Day 4 in SJDS
Our last full day in San Juan del Sur began with a half-day fishing charter and ended with a trip to Cristo de la Misericordia (San Juan del Sur’s enormous Jesus statue), with a visit to Tree Casa Resort and a water park in between.
Fishing Charter in San Juan del Sur
Our middle son is a passionate fisherman, so we consistently try to include fishing opportunities in our itinerary. However, inclement weather complicated our planning for this trip, so we scrabbled to find a charter at the last minute. The company we hoped to use was Nicaragua Ocean Surf & Sport because of their reviews, but unfortunately, they could not accommodate us. So, after a series of referrals to other boat captains and about twenty-five text messages, we booked a half-day inshore charter. The captain picked us up at the marina in town, bringing everything we needed for an exciting morning on the water.
The cerulean swells of the ocean seemed like an angler’s dream. Unfortunately, they also caused some stomachs to feel like a nightmare. Craig was the first to succumb, but the kids weren’t far behind. We hadn’t even made it an hour before three out of five in our group were lying in the boat, nauseous. But we tried to make the best of it!
Eventually, with the help of some Dramamine, everyone rallied, and the fishing commenced. But, our luck with the fish was not much better than with the swells. We trolled for hours with next to no action. We did catch a glimpse of a couple of sea turtles, but that was the extent of the excitement. In fact, in the act of mercy, I’m reasonably sure the captain secretly hooked a previously caught fish to the line, threw it overboard, and let it drag behind the boat until he could pretend it hit one of the lines. He let our son reel it in and take credit for the catch, but we were all a little suspect based on the fish’s behavior (or lack thereof).
We felt slightly disappointed with the experience, but the fish was fresh and provided a substantial meal. Ultimately, my favorite aspect of fishing is being on the boat and enjoying the scenery and sunshine. By that standard, the trip was still a success!
TreeCasa Resort & Water Park
TreeCasa Resort in San Juan del Sur is a premier eco-friendly retreat designed around two magnificent Ceiba trees deeply rooted in the El Encanto jungle. The resort boasts incredible amenities, including a stunning swimming pool that resembles a water park and a fantastic restaurant that offers a menu focused on locally sourced ingredients. Best of all, TreeCasa provides affordable day passes and pizza specials on Wednesdays! After a disappointing fishing trip, we hoped a visit to TreeCasa would redeem our day.
We arrived at TreeCasa just after 1 p.m. and headed straight to the restaurant, feeling famished after our morning on the water. The pizzas could not have arrived at the table fast enough, but the wait was worth every second.
Without a doubt, TreeCasa has the best wood-fired pizza. I’m not sure what kind of Nicaraguan magic they knead into their dough, but we all agreed it was the best pizza we’ve ever had.
After a few minutes of digesting their pizza, the kids rushed off to the pool. The pool is fantastic! One of the huge Ceiba trees, which serves as a cornerstone of the resort’s design, stands tall alongside the pool and features a gorgeous treehouse-like structure consisting of long staircases and multiple platforms. Of course, the kids were more impressed with the waterslide, jumping platform, and waterfalls.
The pool deck features plenty of lounge chairs for those who want to relax and enjoy the surroundings. There is also a snack bar with seating, making it convenient to grab refreshments without having to go back into the restaurant. The kids were thrilled and played for hours. TreeCasa was a much-needed success following our disappointing fishing charter. However, we weren’t ready to end our adventures just yet.
Cristo de la Misericordia
A visit to San Juan del Sur is not complete without a pilgrimage to the Cristo de la Misericordia, affectionately known as ‘The Giant Jesus.’ This impressive 25-meter-high statue of Jesus, one of the tallest in the world, is situated on a hill overlooking Playa SJDS.
The statue represents peace and hope, making it an important site for both religious pilgrims and tourists. It also provides one of the best panoramic views of the mountains and the ocean beyond, making it the perfect location for watching the sunset. We arrived at Cristo de la Misericordia around 5:30 p.m., and the sky displayed a beautiful array of orange and gold hues. We spent about 30 minutes walking around the base of the monument, appreciating the various perspectives of the statue and soaking in our final sunset over San Juan del Sur.
Note: The climb up to the statue is challenging. The staircase is steep and uneven. There are handrails and plenty of room for passing other visitors, but we were all surprised by the trek up.
San Juan del Sur in Review
Having spent four days in SJDS, we conclude it’s a captivating hidden gem that beautifully merges adventure, relaxation, and vibrant local culture against a stunning backdrop of Nicaragua’s picturesque Emerald Coast. There is little doubt that SJDS will continue to grow in popularity among travelers and ex-pats alike. Due to the rising cost of living in neighboring Costa Rica, many people now view Nicaragua as a promising investment opportunity, particularly in San Juan del Sur, which appears to be the preferred location.
Itinerary Planning – 10 Steps